In the UAE you will see jewellery sold in 18K, 21K and 22K gold, often side by side in the same showcase. The number is the gold purity, and it changes more than you might expect — colour, durability, weight, and price all shift with it. Here is what each karat actually means and how to pick the right one.
What the karat number means
Pure gold is 24K — 99.9% gold. On its own, 24K gold is too soft for jewellery that gets everyday wear, so it is alloyed with other metals such as silver, copper or zinc to add strength. The karat number tells you what share of the finished metal is pure gold:
- 24K — 99.9% gold. Used for coins, bars and ceremonial pieces, not everyday jewellery.
- 22K — 91.6% gold. A regional standard for high-value jewellery, bangles and necklaces.
- 21K — 87.5% gold. A Gulf favourite, balancing a rich colour with workable durability.
- 18K — 75% gold. The international standard for fine jewellery and diamond settings.
- 14K — 58.3% gold. Common in Western daily-wear jewellery, less common in the UAE market.
How karat affects colour
The alloy metals mixed with pure gold don't just add strength — they shift the colour. Higher-karat gold (21K, 22K) keeps more of pure gold's warm, saturated yellow, which is why it looks visibly richer than 18K in the same piece. Lower-karat gold (18K, 14K) has more alloy metal by proportion, giving jewellers room to create white gold (alloyed with palladium or nickel) and rose gold (alloyed with a higher share of copper) alongside classic yellow — which is part of why 18K is the standard for pieces offered in multiple colour finishes.
How karat affects durability
Pure gold is a soft metal, so purity and hardness move in opposite directions. 22K and 21K gold are softer and can scratch or dent more easily with hard daily knocks, which is one reason they are traditionally worn for bangles, chains and pieces that see gentler contact rather than pieces exposed to constant friction. 18K gold's higher alloy content makes it noticeably more resistant to scratching and bending, which is exactly why it is the standard choice for rings — worn on the hand, exposed to daily impact — and for settings that need to grip a diamond or gemstone securely over years of wear.
Which karat should you choose?
- 22K is popular for traditional pieces and items that face relatively little friction, such as necklaces and bangles, and is most valued for investment or ceremonial gold where maximum gold content matters most.
- 21K is a regional favourite that balances a rich gold colour with reasonable durability — a middle ground between 22K's tradition and 18K's practicality.
- 18K balances purity and strength — ideal for rings, earrings and everyday designs, and the best choice for diamond and gemstone settings because it holds stones securely over years of wear.
- 14K is the most durable of the common karats, suited to jewellery worn hard every day, though less traditional in the regional market.
How gold jewellery is priced
Gold jewellery pricing has two components: the value of the gold itself, and the making charge. The gold value is calculated from the current market gold rate for that day, multiplied by the karat's purity percentage and the piece's weight in grams — which is why gold jewellery prices move with the market rather than staying fixed like most retail goods. The making charge covers design, craftsmanship and setting, and varies with how intricate the piece is. Because purity scales the gold value directly, a 22K piece of the same weight as an 18K piece will always cost more in gold value alone, even before making charges are added.
A few final tips
- Look for hallmarks stamped into the metal (750 for 18K, 875 for 21K, 916 for 22K) to confirm purity, and buy from a jeweller who can provide certification.
- Higher karats are softer and more strongly yellow; lower karats are harder with a lighter, more adjustable hue.
- Match the karat to the wearer's lifestyle — how often the piece will be worn, and what it will be worn against.
- If the piece carries a diamond or gemstone, ask specifically about the setting's karat — it is usually 18K even when the rest of a design uses richer-coloured gold.
At AAZ Jewellery we craft in 18K, 21K and 22K gold, made to order at our Deira atelier. If you are choosing a diamond piece, our guide to GIA certificates and diamond types will help, or build your own piece in the karat that suits you.
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